Siding installation looks simple until you hit the details that actually make it last: wall prep, water management, starter alignment, fastening, and clean finishing around windows and doors. This guide walks you through how to install siding on a house, including the most searched variations like exterior siding installation, installing siding on a house, and replacing siding on a house.
If you want this done professionally, GMJ Construction also offers siding installation services in the Bay Area.
Tools and Materials Checklist
Before you start, gather everything so you are not improvising mid-install.
Tools
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Tape measure, level, framing square
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Chalk line
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Utility knife, snips, and/or circular saw with the correct blade for your siding
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Hammer or siding nailer (use carefully, see fastening notes below)
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Pry bar (for tear-off and trim adjustments)
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Drill/driver for trim, flashing, and accessory fastening
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Ladder/scaffolding and fall protection if needed
Materials
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Siding panels or planks (plus trim and accessories)
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Starter strip (for vinyl and some systems)
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J-channel or equivalent trim pieces (vinyl systems)
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Water-resistive barrier (WRB), such as housewrap or approved building paper
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Flashing materials for windows, doors, penetrations, and roof-to-wall transitions
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Corrosion-resistant fasteners compatible with your siding
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Sealants where the manufacturer requires them (not everywhere)
GMJ field note: Most siding problems we see are not “bad siding.” They are water issues from poor WRB and flashing integration. If you get that layer wrong, the best siding in the world will not save the wall.
Choose Your Siding Type (What Changes in the Install)
Different materials install differently. Your wall prep and water management are similar across systems, but the fastening rules and detailing can change.
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Vinyl siding: Expands and contracts a lot. The installation depends on correct fastener placement and leaving room for movement. A great reference is the Vinyl Siding Institute installation manual.
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Fiber cement siding: More rigid. You must follow the manufacturer’s instructions, including clearances and specific fastening guidance. See HardiePlank lap siding installation instructions.
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Wood or engineered wood: Requires careful moisture control, correct clearances, and proper fastening.
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Metal siding: Often needs specific trims and corrosion considerations.
If you are unsure what is right for your home, start with your climate exposure (fog, wind-driven rain, and sun) and your maintenance tolerance.
Step 1: Preparing the House for Siding Installation
This is the part most DIY installs rush. Do not.
Inspect the existing exterior
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Look for soft wood, rot, insect damage, or mold
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Check window and door areas for staining, bubbling paint, or swollen trim
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Confirm the wall is flat enough for your siding system
Decide: tear-off vs overlay
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Tear-off is best when the existing siding is damaged, uneven, or you want to verify the wall condition.
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Overlay can work when the existing cladding is flat, stable, and compatible with the new system, but you still must protect the wall with proper WRB and flashing strategy.
Repair the substrate
Replace damaged sheathing or framing and fix any structural issues before you add new layers.
Plan your details before installing anything
Walk the exterior and identify:
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Window and door types
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Roof-to-wall intersections
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Deck ledgers
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Hose bibs, vents, and electrical penetrations
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Termination points at grade and near concrete
Step 2: Install the Water-Resistive Barrier and Flashing
This is the “keep the wall dry” layer behind your siding.
WRB basics
Install a WRB over studs or sheathing and integrate it with flashing so water drains outward, not inward. California’s residential code framework includes WRB and flashing requirements for exterior walls. A clean reference is California Residential Code R703.2.
Flashing: do it before you install siding
Flashing should be installed at:
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Windows and doors (head, jambs, and sill as required by the window system)
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Roof-to-wall intersections (kickout flashing matters)
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Penetrations like vents and electrical
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Any horizontal transitions where water can enter
If you want a Bay Area-friendly checkpoint list, the City of Palo Alto publishes an inspection guideline that highlights WRB, flashing, and nailing verification for exterior wall coverings: Exterior Wall Coverings and Siding inspection checklist.
GMJ field note: If you only improve one thing on this page, improve how you handle windows and roof-to-wall transitions. Those are the two most common leak zones.
Step 3: Layout and Starter Strip
Good siding installation starts with a straight first course.
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Establish a level reference line
Pick your starting elevation, then snap a chalk line around the structure where the first course will sit. -
Confirm clearances
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Keep siding properly separated from grade, concrete, and roof surfaces per your siding manufacturer’s instructions.
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Install the starter strip (vinyl and similar systems)
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Starter strip must be level, properly fastened, and continuous where required.
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This determines whether every course above looks clean or looks like a mistake.
Step 4: Corners, Trim, and Channels Around Openings
Before the field panels go on, install the edge details.
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Outside and inside corners: Install corner posts or corner trim planks straight and plumb.
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Around windows and doors: Install trim pieces designed for your system. For vinyl, this often means J-channel or specific trim profiles.
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Transitions: Plan how siding terminates at soffits, fascia, decks, and material changes.
If you want a model for “manual-style detailing,” Polymeric Exteriors provides a clear approach to planning and installation sequencing: VSI installation manual getting started.
Step 5: Install Siding Courses (The Core Process)
This is the repeatable “putting siding on a house” process.
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Start at the bottom of your starter strip or first course line
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Lock or seat the panel/plank correctly
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Fasten per manufacturer guidance
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Correct fastener type
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Correct spacing
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Correct placement (critical for vinyl)
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Check the level every few courses
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Stagger joints where required (material dependent)
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Detail around openings as you reach them
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Finish the top course with the correct termination trim
Vinyl Siding Installation (Expanded Step-by-Step)
Vinyl siding installation is about movement control. The most reliable baseline guidance is the VSI installation manual.
1) Do not nail it tight
Vinyl needs to expand and contract. Fasteners should allow the panel to move.
2) Place fasteners correctly
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Fasten in the manufacturer-designated nailing hem
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Do not overdrive fasteners
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Follow spacing guidelines for your product and exposure conditions
3) Cut and fit cleanly
Use the appropriate tools for straight cuts and notches. Avoid forcing a tight fit where movement is required.
4) Handle seams and overlaps intentionally
Stagger seams and keep the finish consistent so the wall does not look patchy in sunlight.
5) Finish around windows and doors carefully
Use the correct trim system, and do not rely on caulk as your waterproofing strategy.
Fiber Cement Siding Installation (Expanded Step-by-Step)
Fiber cement is less forgiving if you ignore the manufacturer’s details. Use the product’s installation instructions as the controlling document. See HardiePlank lap siding installation instructions.
1) Confirm WRB and flashing are correct first
Fiber cement does not stop water. Your WRB and flashing strategy does.
2) Set the first course
Install the first plank straight. If the first course is off, the wall stays off.
3) Maintain manufacturer clearances
Clearances at grade, roofs, and hard surfaces are there to reduce moisture exposure and deterioration.
4) Use approved fasteners
Use corrosion-resistant fasteners compatible with the product and your environment.
5) Stagger joints and manage butt joints correctly
Follow the manufacturer’s requirements for joint placement and any joint treatment.
Replacing Siding on a House (Partial Replacement)
Not every project requires a full re-side. If you are replacing siding on a house due to localized damage, do this:
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Identify the real cause (water intrusion, failed flashing, impact)
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Remove siding back to a clean termination point
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Inspect the wall behind it, including sheathing and framing
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Repair the WRB and flashing before reinstalling any siding
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Replace with matching material, paying attention to alignment and fastening rules
If you keep patching without fixing the water path, the damage will return.
Common Siding Installation Mistakes to Avoid
These are the failures we see most often.
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Skipping WRB integration and relying on caulk
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Missing kickout flashing at roof-to-wall intersections
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Starting the first course out of level
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Driving fasteners too tight (vinyl buckles and warps)
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Installing without proper clearances at grade or roof surfaces
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Ignoring manufacturer instructions for joint treatment and trims
Cost, Timeline, and Permits in California
Cost and timeline depend on:
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Material choice (vinyl vs fiber cement vs wood)
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Tear-off vs overlay
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Number of openings and corners
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Rot repair and structural fixes
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Access complexity (two-story, tight setbacks)
In many Bay Area jurisdictions, siding replacement can trigger permit requirements, especially if you are changing materials, altering sheathing, or addressing structural elements. Check your local building department requirements early.
When to Hire a Contractor
Consider professional siding installation if:
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You see rot or water damage
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You have complex window flashing conditions
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Your home is multi-story
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You have roof-to-wall intersections and multiple penetrations
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You want a clean finish that holds up long term
If you want a professional quote, start here: contact GMJ Construction for a project estimate.
GMJ Project Spotlight: Why Exterior Details Matter
Exterior envelope upgrades often happen alongside larger renovations. If you want to see how GMJ approaches full-home transformations with careful attention to detail, take a look at the full GMJ project portfolio.
If your exterior work is part of a larger expansion, you may also want to review our approach to additions. For Los Altos Hills homeowners, see room addition services.
FAQ: Siding Installation and Re-Siding Questions
How do you install siding on a house the right way?
Start with wall prep, then integrate WRB and flashing, set a level starter line, install corners and trims, then install courses while following your manufacturer’s fastening and clearance rules.
How to put siding on a house if the wall is not perfectly flat?
You must fix substrate issues first. Siding will not “hide” rot, bowed sheathing, or structural problems. Correct the wall plane before installing siding.
Can you install new siding over old siding?
Sometimes, but it depends on the existing cladding condition and compatibility. Overlay can hide problems, so it is often safer to tear off when you suspect damage.
What is the difference between siding installation and residing in a house?
They are typically used interchangeably. “Residing” often implies replacement of existing siding, possibly including repairs and detailing upgrades.
How long does house siding installation take?
It depends on square footage, material choice, openings, and repair needs. Many projects range from several days to a few weeks once materials and permits are lined up.

